31 Jan Two Lights
There’s a bit of Silver Lake meets Vampire Weekend in the air on Kingsland Road, since Maine-born chef Chase Lovecky (Momofuku-ko, Clove Club…) settled there with the Clove Club team. The sunlight bounces off the arty photos on the white brick walls, the open kitchen, the tawny leather benches and the stylish waiters. Just cool enough to shine a light on the menu.
At lunch that day, plated on pastel tableware by Sue Pryke, we came across a creative, playful and definitely cosmopolitan bunch: soft and crispy schnitzel dressed up in radish and togarashi; banging tiny potatoes swimming in a devilish ‘nduja and almond milk bath; famous beef fat chips topped with crab; forgettable instagram-diva katsusardine sandwich; pumpkin ice cream, persimmon and popcorn… Splash it all with the short, globe-drinker wine list.
Lunch menu: £20
Wine: glass from £6, bottle from £34
(12-2.30pm and 5.30-10.30pm)