Reincarnated as a nocturnal haunt of those who know, Bukowski’s cult poem has taken the lead of the East London “terroiriste” bastion, led by thundering Australian boss Charlie Mellor (Brawn, Elliot’s). You’ll find exposed bricks, soft lighting, Ercol chairs and restaurateurs off-duty.

To mop up the tremendous natural wine list, chef Tom Anglesea rustles up neo-Brit small plates you should tackle with the cutlery hidden under the treasure table: chicken liver pâté on crisp lavosh flatbread; sweet sweet Delica pumpkin, whey and sage tortellini; Saddleback pig neck, shiitakes and corn… Wrap it up with an intriguing charcoal macaroon, red flesh apple and caramel.

Valentine Benoist