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The Laughing Heart

Reincarnated as a nocturnal haunt of those who know, Bukowski’s cult poem has taken the lead of the East London “terroiriste” bastion, led by thundering Australian boss Charlie Mellor (Brawn, Elliot’s). You’ll find exposed bricks, soft lighting, Ercol chairs and restaurateurs off-duty.

To mop up the tremendous natural wine list, chef Tom Anglesea rustles up neo-Brit small plates you should tackle with the cutlery hidden under the treasure table: chicken liver pâté on crisp lavosh flatbread; sweet sweet Delica pumpkin, whey and sage tortellini; Saddleback pig neck, shiitakes and corn… Wrap it up with an intriguing charcoal macaroon, red flesh apple and caramel.

Valentine Benoist

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WHEN TO GO

Stay for the after-match
Events

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TAKEAWAY

Natural wine

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THE SPOTS TO KNOW

Off-licence
The Laughing Heart Cave

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Snacks: £2.50-12
Small plates: £7-18
Desserts: £6-8
Carte blanche menu: £39
Wine: glass from £6, bottle from £30

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Restaurant
Monday-Saturday 6.30pm-1am

Bar
Monday-Saturday 6.30pm-2am

Off-licence
Monday-Saturday 6.30pm-2am

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Reservation

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277 Hackney Road
London E2 8NA

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+44 (0)20 7686 9535

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Hoxton
Cambridge Heath
Bethnal Green

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