Lucky Dalstoners! Tom Oldroyd (Oldroyd) has taken over the local corner boozer and given it a hell of a makeover, whilst keeping the stunningly graphic wooden floor which has seen it all before. The facade and the walls happily wear linden green, the terrace is all fairy-lighted, and the sunny dining room features sleek black seating and tasteful posters.

In the kitchen, Rory Shannon rustles up epic plates, mixing gastropub and dusted-off old-school French fare: brilliant Cornish crab and broad beans vol-au-vent; crunchy asparagus, home-cured duck and hazelnut vinaigrette; soft lamb sweetbreads, mash, peas, morels and powerful jus; proper burger and fries, upgraded with roquefort and confit shallots; the stickiest date toffee pudding with crème fraîche ice cream; joyous café liégeois, from the bottom up of course. Let it all slide with the nice selection of beers and cosmopolitan wines.

Valentine Benoist