On the corner or a quiet Clerkenwell street, push the saloon-like swing doors into the loungey, dark wood pub room around since 1790. Keep going, almost there, here it is: the glazed "Back Room", adorned with beautiful glass ceiling lights and botanical illustrations, open onto a garlanded patio.
Taken over by Henry Harris (Hero of Maida, Three Cranes), Aurélien Durand (The Drapers Arms) juggles between comforting, good old seasonal French brasserie classics: magret, Provençal style; whole plaice, shrimp, caper butter and pommes rissolées; onglet, chips and marrow butter, crème caramel and trou normand (apple sorbet boozy with calvados) to end it properly... On Sundays, the holy roast rules out the French.
+The spot you should know: the upstairs dining room
How much?Starters: £2.75-19 - Mains: £15.50-72
Sunday roasts: £16.50-44 - Sides: £4-4.75
Wine: glass from £4.90, bottle from £19.50
Where, when, how?Monday-Saturday 11am-11pm, Sunday 12-10pm
26-28 Ray Street, London EC1R 3DJ
Farringdon, Chancery Lane, Russell Square
Réservation : oui
+44 (0)20 3954 1595