The Manor is no more, Robin Gill’s Dairy sister has revamped herself as a neighbourhood trattoria, mixing retro aperitivi posters vibes, vintage crockery and exposed bricks. From his open counter, chef Dean Parker delights Italian-style, from chichetti to dolci.

Among the joys of the neat tasting menu: powerful fried Nocellara olives; pleasing charred leeks and egg yolk; fresh mackerel, apple and bottarga; cracking duck and mushroom parfait agnolotti, followed by a robust malted barley and vodka milk affogato and to finish off in style.

Valentine Benoist