In 2014, Andy Oliver, Mark Dobbie and Tom George launched their regional Thai food pop-up. Two years and an impressive crowdfunding campaign later, their “small citrus fruit” inhabits a converted factory and is all about wood, metal and vintage prints.

Order a bit of everything for everyone to share from this surprising and often spicy menu (note to sensitive palates): the famous whole deep fried seabass with roasted rice powder and isaan herbs (nahm dtok pla thort); fragrant five spice soy braised beef cheek curry (neua parlow); devilish green papaya salad (som tam isaan)… Cool down the fire with salted palm sugar ice cream and turmeric grilled banana.

Valentine Benoist