11 Sep Rovi
Ottolenghi has a new addition to their growing collection, this time in Fitz(rovi)a. This very grown-up, very New York restaurant designed by Alex Meitlis is much warmer with solid blond wood, steel and sleek poppy red banquettes. And it’s a crowd-pleaser, with a place (from the round table for six to bar stools) and a time (from breakfast to dinner) for everyone.
Producers are all over the veggie-centric menu led by chef Neil Campbell who plays with fire and ferments from his burning grill: the addictive tahini is mopped with a wave of grilled pita, roasted cherry tomatoes explode on top of fresh cheese, the chicken mix grill transports you to Jerusalem and the humble spuds have been smoked in hay… Wash it all down with a bright Palestinian white before discovering the bill—just as grown-up.
Wine: glass from £4.50, bottle from £22