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Perilla Dining

Young Ben Marks (Claridge’s, Noma…) back and Matt Emmerson (Polpo, Polpetto) front of house, dive into the semi gastronomic deep end after two well-received residencies in Clapton and Dulwich. In their glazed Newington Green angle restaurant with a casual vibe, everyone is looking for the perfect spot between the bricked walls and the industrial lighting: guest table, quiet date…

Tasting and à la carte menus are almost the same and keep on rising: starters are nothing to be too excited about (bolognese cuttlefish has little to do with bolognese, pleasant Turkish pepper, braised courgette and dulse), the little mains are a hit (soft roast cod with braised greens, mussels and clams, delicious short rib, radish with a quince sauce) and punchy grapefruit, olive oil and basil custard to finish on a sweet note. To wash down with the short European wine list, such as Portuguese Covento da Vila or Spanish Monastrell by Goru Organic, while waiting for them to become the next big thing.

Valentine Benoist

How much?
Small plates: £9-14 – Desserts: £7-10
Tasting menu: £38, wine pairing £32 – Cocktails: £8
Wine: glass from £4.50, bottle from £24

Where, when, how?
Opening times: Tuesday-Wednesday 6-11pm, Thursday-Saturday 12.30-3pm and 6-11pm, Sunday 12.30-9pm
Location: 1-3 Green Lanes, London N16 9BS
Tube stations: Canonbury, Dalston Kingsland, Dalston Junction
Reservation: yes
Telephone: +44 (0)207 3590 779
perilladining.co.uk