This tiny cave à manger, a local fave, has just reinvented itself. With Bright’s top team (William Gleave and Phil Bracey) taking over, Legs has become Peg: a Japanese-influenced neo-canteen with white high table tops made of recycled yogurt pots, a groovy playlist and a nod to Steely Dan .

Chopstick your way around the short and grill-heavy board led by Byron Fini: alluring chicken skewers from A to Z (heart, liver, thighs…); cracking wriggly chawanmushi with crunchy asparagus; crunchy mini rice cakes topped with eel and nori; fried chickpea-tofu sponging a lovely dashi broth…. Support it with the extensive natural wine list. It’s your favourite foreign movie.

Valentine Benoist