He is all over the place! After opening roaring St Leonards with Andrew Clarke in Shoreditch, Jackson Boxer (Brunswick House) is here again on the other side of town: cozy setting, ladies who lunch on pretty cane chairs, washed linen, elegant sketches by his mum and light wood – We certainly are in Notting Hill.

Very personal, his last-born is inspired by childhood memories from holidays in the Western Isles, and the daily-changing menu celebrates the sea: spring anchovies lie on a mustardy, airy fried bread; the potato flatbread is topped with smoked cod’s roe and a vivid pomelo kosho; leeks and crushed royal jerseys get into bed with a powerful crab butter; a plump roast cod swims generously with shrimps, peas and capers… Conclude with a brown bread ice cream topped with popcorn bits that tastes just like Proust’s madeleine. Spot-on service and pretty wine list.

Valentine Benoist