13 Jun Orasay
He is all over the place! After opening roaring St Leonards with Andrew Clarke in Shoreditch, Jackson Boxer (Brunswick House) is here again on the other side of town: cozy setting, ladies who lunch on pretty cane chairs, washed linen, elegant sketches by his mum and light wood – We certainly are in Notting Hill.
Very personal, his last-born is inspired by childhood memories from holidays in the Western Isles, and the daily-changing menu celebrates the sea: spring anchovies lie on a mustardy, airy fried bread; the potato flatbread is topped with smoked cod’s roe and a vivid pomelo kosho; leeks and crushed royal jerseys get into bed with a powerful crab butter; a plump roast cod swims generously with shrimps, peas and capers… Conclude with a brown bread ice cream topped with popcorn bits that tastes just like Proust’s madeleine. Spot-on service and pretty wine list.
Lunch menus: £16-20
Late-night snacks: £4-10
Wine: glass from £5, bottle from £28