Once upon a time, there was a cave à manger that just wouldn’t go up in smoke. Led by Lyon native Margaux Aubry (ex-Terroirs) and her Londoner husband Joe Sharratt (ex-Trinity), these piglets have been putting the neighbourhood on a natural wine diet since 2015.

Be it sat along the bar (pointing your snout at the open kitchen) or hiding in the back dining room, bite into Padrón peppers and crispy ham croquettes to start with, before the ace parade begins: tender roast pear, Jerusalem artichoke crisps, hazelnuts and blue cheese; Devon crab, peanut and pickled cabbage; fallow deer, parsnip and shimeji mushrooms… For your happily ever after, greet the tarte tatin with a savagnin glass from Jura.

Valentine Benoist