After seriously sharpening her knives (The Writer, Gordon Ramsay), Irish chef Anna Haugh discreetly installed herself in her muted tiny little restaurant, named after fellow Irish chef Myrtle Allen. Located in Chelsea’s end of the world, the decor is in line with the neighbourhood (white tablecloths, powder pink velvet armchairs, pastel blue woodwork and an Oscar Wilde quote on the wall).

All about contrasts, her hyper-precise cuisine is filled with nods to her native land: a Clonakilty black pudding appear finely wrapped in crunchy potatoes and woken up with apple purée; the braised beef stew freshened by peas and mushrooms melts in your mouth; finally, the very sweet mango posset and oat biscuits is balanced with mint and blackberries… Mop it all delicately with the soda bread, whilst drinking from an engraved silver cup.

Valentine Benoist

Last update: 17/09/2019