24 Apr Master Wei
After the cult following of their Arsenal eatery, chef Guirong Wei has now set foot in Bloomsbury for her first solo canteen, putting the Shaanxi food under the spotlights once again. Past the panda cook sign, the decor is still super low-key, with slight upgrades: embroidered fringed cushions, illuminated regional pictures of terracotta soldiers and a giant map in case you had forgotten where the focus was.
The menu features mainly the classics that have people queuing up at Xi’an Impression: silky, gigantic hand-pulled veggie biang biang noodles draped in seriously tickling spicy sauce; crunchy crushed cucumbers; pulled pork and cumin beef baps; soft pork and veg dumplings to dip… Still no dessert, still super cheap, still super good – this time with a license to sip on the spot!
Wine: glass from £4.50, bottle from £17.95