For a few years now, Angeleno chef Julian Denis had been pop-upping his banging vegan Chinese cooking around London. He’s now settled for good in London Fields, in a teeny tiny, very 90s space announced by a blinking neon sign.

Basically sitting on your neighbour’s lap around the guest table, with your back against the pop walls with kitsch frames hanging, firmly plant your chopsticks in electrifying dan dan noodles, crunchy gong bao asparagus with fried peanuts and chili, and soft dumplings… Quench the fire with a Casa Belfi natural fizz or a sweet almond drink straight from the mini fridge. The plant-based brainchild of CheZaline and Mission Chinese.

Valentine Benoist