16 Jan Levan
Brixton’s most popular salon has headed further South. Just a step away from Peckham Rye, Nicholas Balfe, Matt Bushnell and Mark Gurney’s new baby bears the same peacock-blue, vinyls and natural wine bottles, playing it like a Parisian cave à manger.
The seasonal menu goes the French way from breakfast to dinner, feat. bistronomy classics: duck rillettes (slightly too fatty); lively beef tartare with anchovies; a plump croque and some naughty Comté fries with saffron aïoli… The real show stealer are the caramelised celeriac ravioli with Jerusalem artichokes, dashi butter and lovage sauce. Match it all to Europhile juices before devouring the espresso and hazelnut choux bun.
Chef’s menu: £41
Wine: glass from £6, carafe from £21