Moments after closing Ellory, the trio is already back on serious tracks with Leroy, where you’ll bump into the food smart set. In a bright, stripped-down atmosphere (white wood panels on the walls, delicate wine illustrations by Louise Sheeran…) opposite Oklava, Sam Kamienko chisels seasonal, Mediterranean-inspired small plates, lightened up by the natural gems uncorked by Ed Thaw and Jack Lewens.

In the surrounding hubbub, sit at the marble counter or in a booth and tuck delightfully into this pure simplicity: a few slices of saucisson; a couple of courgettes in fired-up yogurt; some asparagus turned Piedmontese with bagna cauda and shaved egg; a plate of tomato and basil gnocchi; or a juicy lamb chop escorted by roast red peppers. Wrap it all up with the soft rhubarb and almond tart, or a caramel and sauternes crème brûlée.

Valentine Benoist