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Moments after closing Ellory, the trio is already back on serious tracks with Leroy, where you’ll bump into the food smart set. In a bright, stripped-down atmosphere (white wood panels on the walls, delicate wine illustrations by Louise Sheeran…) opposite Oklava, Sam Kamienko chisels seasonal, Mediterranean-inspired small plates, lightened up by the natural gems uncorked by Ed Thaw and Jack Lewens.

In the surrounding hubbub, sit at the marble counter or in a booth and tuck delightfully into this pure simplicity: a few slices of saucisson; a couple of courgettes in fired-up yogurt; some asparagus turned Piedmontese with bagna cauda and shaved egg; a plate of tomato and basil gnocchi; or a juicy lamb chop escorted by roast red peppers. Wrap it all up with the soft rhubarb and almond tart, or a caramel and sauternes crème brûlée.

Valentine Benoist

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The bar

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Snacks: £3-9.50
Plates: £9-35
Desserts: £4-7
Cocktails: £10-12
Lunch menus: £16-20
Wine: glass from £5, bottle from £25

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Monday 6-10.30pm
Tuesday-Saturday 12-2pm and 6-10.30pm

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18 Phipp Street
London EC2A 4NU

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+44 (0)20 7394 443

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Old Street
Shoreditch High Street
Liverpool Street

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