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After the success of Smoking Goat, Ben Chapman tackles roadside rural Thai cuisine with top Cornwall ingredients, the complicated way: no gas and electricity reduced to the minimum.

The first thrill: behind the stainless steel counter, flames of chestnut wood lick the woks, barbecues and hypnotic claypots. Chefs are busy, temperature rises. Most fork-only, stripped-down small plates are super exciting (aged lamb and cumin skewers, fresh dry red curry mackerel, superb Southern style dry pork and curry), a few slightly disappointing (claypot-baked glass noodles with pork belly and brown crab meat a bit light on the two meaty ingredients). To calm the heat down, a fragrant Isaan mushroom salad and a glass of Robinot’s Le Regard.

Valentine Benoist

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At the counter

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Plates: £2.90-14
Wine: glass from £6.70, bottle from £26.90

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Monday-Thursday 12-3pm and 5-11pm
Friday-Saturday 12-11pm
Sunday 12-9pm

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58 Brewer Street
London W1F 9TL

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No phone

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Piccadilly Circus
Leicester Square

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