The slightly lifeless St. James’s Market, home to Scully, hosts another singular table. Named after the posh Lagos neighbourhood, Iré Hassan-Odukale and Jeremy Chan (Noma, Hibiscus) have designed a West African-centered restaurant with a strong attention to chic gastronomic details: delicate cane chairs, sienna seats, terracotta ceiling lamps, handmade ceramics and a hynotic terrazzo floor-it’s all there!

For lunch that day: buttermilk plantains with raspberry powder to dip in an explosive smoked scotch bonnet cream; a silky stone bass with caramelised skin on in a crayfish bisque; the unfamous smoking crab jollof rice; an intriguing black benne (sesame) and blackcurrant dessert. Our only tiny regret: there’s too few wine glasses under a tenner. It’s not very crowded-good for you, run there before the word is out!

Valentine Benoist


Good to know: available for private hire

How much?

Plates: £5.50-38 - Desserts: £8-8.50 Lunch menu: £35 - Pre-theatre menu: £30 (5.30-6.30pm) Dinner menu: £60 - Cocktails: £6-12 Wine: glass from £6.50, bottle from £32

Where, when, how?

Monday-Friday 12-3pm and 5.30-11pm, Saturday 12-11pm (snacks & drinks 3.30-5pm) 1 St James’s Market, London SW1Y 4AH Piccadilly Circus, Leicester Square, Charing Cross Reservation: yes +44 (0)20 3583 4660 ikoyilondon.com