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The slightly lifeless St. James’s Market, home to Scully, hosts another singular table. Named after the posh Lagos neighbourhood, Iré Hassan-Odukale and Jeremy Chan (Noma, Hibiscus) have designed a West African-centered restaurant with a strong attention to chic gastronomic details: delicate cane chairs, sienna seats, terracotta ceiling lamps, handmade ceramics and a hypnotic terrazzo floor-it’s all there!

For lunch that day: buttermilk plantains with raspberry powder to dip in an explosive smoked scotch bonnet cream; a silky stone bass with caramelised skin on in a crayfish bisque; the unfamous smoking crab jollof rice; an intriguing black benne (sesame) and blackcurrant dessert. Our only tiny regret: there’s too few wine glasses under a tenner. It’s not very crowded-good for you, run there before the word is out!

Valentine Benoist

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Crab jollof rice

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Plates: £5.50-38
Desserts: £8-8.50
Lunch menu: £35
Pre-theatre menu: £30 (5.30-6.30pm)
Dinner menu: £60
Cocktails: £6-12
Wine: glass from £6.50, bottle from £32

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Monday-Friday 12-3pm and 5.30-11pm
Saturday 12-11pm (snacks & drinks 3.30-5pm)

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1 St James’s Market
London SW1Y 4AH

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Piccadilly Circus
Leicester Square
Charing Cross

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+44 (0)20 3583 4660

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