07 Mar Evelyn’s Table
There’s a secret door at the far left corner of Zoё and Layo Paskin hybrid Chinatown building: go down a few steps to discover their latest extravaganza – a hidden table named after Polanski’s Evelyn, barely fifteen covers along a simple marble counter, nose in the kitchen.
In this hushed intimacy awakened by a good 90s playlist, we keep shifting further North of the Mediterranean: there are some Spanish touches, but the menu by chef Luke Robinson (ex-Corner Room, Bonnie Gull) has a strong Franco-Italian focus. Let Cédric Touny take you by the hand, from the fresh fish tray straight from Cornwall (clearly the show stopper with the perfectly simple brill in brown butter, capers and mashed potatoes or the silky half-pickled half-grilled mackerel…) to this cool Bulgarian white. He may even take you all the way to the tarte tatin with chunky caramelized apples, and that’s good news.
Last update: 21/02/2019
Wine: glass from £6, bottle from £33