Sophistication has reached a whole new level at Bao team’s latest venture, immersing diners into the delicate world of Taiwanese teahouses from the 30s: swooning Art Déco atmosphere by BraddyWilliams Studio (dark wooden panel walls, celadon green and powder pink seats, marble floor), tea kiosks and brilliant tiny tables for one.

The small delicate plates flutter about between two sips of ceremonial tea or paired whisky: tomato and smoked eel a bit heavy on Sichuan pepper, lovely Xian Bing pan fried pork pancakes, intriguing cuttlefish toast, comforting Shou Pa chicken… And to end on a high note between two mahjong games in one of the dedicated rooms, indulge in the splendidly simple almond ice cream with black sesame sauce.

Valentine Benoist

How much?

Starters-Bites: £2.75-10 - Mains: £15-18.50 Rice and vegetables: £5-7 - Desserts: £4.50-6.50 Menus: £19.50-35 - Teas: £5.50-12 Wine: glass from £5, bottle from £28

Where, when, how?

Opening times: Monday-Thursday 12-3pm, Friday-Saturday 12-11pm Location: 30 Rupert Street, London W1D 6DL Tube stations: Picadilly Circus, Leicester Square Reservation: yes xulondon.com