Amber Rowlands©
Since 2014, Australian chef Skye Gyngell (ex-Petersham Nurseries) has taken over a 19th century drawing room of the Somerset House, bathed in light and doubled up with an atrium. Under the crazy high ceilings, important business discussions seem to be happening, comfortably seated in the camel seats, close to the majestuous marble bar..

The breton-striped waiters spin from table to table between the celadon walls covered in china blossoms by artist Valeria Nascimento, bringing beautifully seasonal plates under Italian influence: fantastic vitello tonnato, moreish tagliolini with crème fraîche and sage, comforting meatballs with sour cherries, charred cucumber and labneh, or a wild sea bass with coco beans, girolles and a punchy salsa verde… The ballet ends with a greengage and almond tart, with fennel blossom ice cream. Special mention goes to the affordable wine list.

Valentine Benoist

Where, when, how?

Opening times: Monday-Saturday 12-2.30pm and 5.30-10.30pm Location: Somerset House New Wing, Lancaster Place, London WC2R 1LA Nearest tube stations: Temple, Covent Garden, Leicester Square, Embankment Reservation: yes Telephone: +44 (0)0203 0110 115 springrestaurant.co.uk

How much?

Starters: £12-19 Mains: £18-33 - Puddings: £9-12 Pre-theatre menu: £20 - Set lunch menus: from £27.50 - Children’s menu: £15 Wine: glass from £5, bottle from £25