Hugh Johnson©
After a super successful residency at Pop Brixton, in January 2017 duo Will Bowlby and Rik Campbell moved to brick-and-mortar in Soho. The Indian rattan vintage touch is balanced by the skillfully raw walls, graphic tiles like you should, brass lamps and the long black counter. Similar vibe downstairs, where large communal tables are the rule.

Along the same lines as Gunpowder or Hoppers, Will’s little dishes served in beautiful plates make British produce flirt with Mumbai spirit: lardo naan, crunchy samphire pakoras with a tamarind-date chutney, smoked aubergine dip calmed down by a sesame raita, delicate kasundi mackerel freshened up by a gooseberry chutney and oyster leaves, or the moist Kerala fried chicken, to dip blissfully in the curry leaf mayo. Wash it all down with a sophisticated Narangi cocktail (cardamom bourbon, marmelade, orange) or a lime and mint soda.

Valentine Benoist

Where, when, how?

Opening times: Monday-Saturday 12.30-2.30pm and 5.30-10.30pm, Sunday 11am-3pm Location: 12 Denman Street, London W1D 7HH Tube stations: Picadilly Circus, Leicester Square Reservation: yes, downstairs only

How much?

Snacks: £3.50-4 - Small plates: £4.20-11.50 Desserts: £5.50-9 - Cocktails: £9 Sunday brunch: £3.50-9 Wine: glass from £5, bottle from £22