It’s the sister of Carl Clarke and David Wolanski’s hip Haggerston canteen. In this supercharged Seven Dials basement, the wallpaper goes wild and the bright pink “Fry ‘till you die” neon tells you what it’s all about: here, the (grass-fed, of course) chicken is brined in buttermilk before sizzling under Asian influence at full blast, just like the playlist.
The Kung Pao-glazed drumsticks (peanuts, Szechuan chilli, spring onion) are best eaten with both hands and splashed in miso-ginger mayo, the K-pop bun bursts with gochujang mayo, chilli vinegar and slaw, and we’ll long remember the Szechuan aubergine marinated in black beans paste and Chinese vinegar. The picture would be incomplete if you didn’t see Pink Elephants (vodka, banana, pineapple, pomegranate, citrus, sour) thanks to the high-level cocktails!
How much?Starters: £6-8 - Mains: £9-12, whole chicken £30
Sides: £3.50-5 - Desserts: £2.65-5.65
Where, when, how?Opening times: Monday-Wednesday 12-3pm and 5.30-10pm, Thursday-Friday 12-3pm and 5.30-10.30pm, Saturday 12-10.30, Sunday 12-8.30pm
Location: 1a Earlham Street, London WC2H 9LL
Tube stations: Covent Garden, Leicester Sq, Tottenham Court Rd