Learning his seafood trade in his native Cornwall before joining his mentor Nathan Outlaw in Knightsbridge, Tom Brown’s first solo venture in Hackney Wick, named after an Arctic Monkeys song, is all the rage. Set in a bright new build, decorated fashionably low-key in black and wood with the family clock: it’s the ultimate gastrocool spot.

The sea-centered menu by the rising chef is brilliant, supported by a super attentive service: peppy pickled oyster, celery and horseradish; amazing fleshy gurnard cured in almond milk, crunchy almonds, yoghurt, grapes and sherry vinegar; already cult potted shrimp crumpet, kohlrabi and gherkins… Save room for a light finish with the pineapple and passion fruit pavlova.

Valentine Benoist