This terroir-based neo-bistro is the perfect hideaway for gazing at the packed Columbia Flower Market from behind the glass. Two rooms / two vibes, with a stripped-down, wino touch (illustrated posters, vineyard pictures, cheeky wine labels): the first room is bathed in light, while the second is next to the kitchen, where Ed Wilson rustles up and sends off his great, simple seasonal plates.

Flirting with lovely natural wines (Matassa, Cantina Giardino…): mussels, marinated peppers and Calabrian chilli, bavette with grilled radicchio, gorgonzola and walnuts, followed by a fig leaf panna cotta.

Valentine Benoist