Benjamin McMahon©
Spot the discreet door on the left to Smoking Goat in the very foodie Tea building (Lyle’s, Pizza Pilgrims) and let the empty bottles guide you to the first floor. That’s where Tomos Parry’s open fire kitchen hides, surrounded by antique wood panels and large windows onto the hip Shoreditch industrial conversion neighbours.

What’s on? Cooking on coal Extebarri-style, with a nod to the ex-Kitty Fisher’s chef Welsh roots. Brilliant ingredients shine on in a thought-out simplicity, on low-key white plates: the classic egg & cress has a makeover as an egg-mayo salad toast with cress and chive, jazzed up with bottarga; the infamous gigantic turbot, Herdwick lamb or duck all put to the grill; the freshest tomato salad has just the right vinegar kick… Mop it all with large chunks of bread on fire, before digging into the brunt rhubarb cheesecake.

Valentine Benoist


Don’t miss out: Brat Pour, monthly focus on a winemaker by sommelier James Harrison

How much?

Snacks: £3.50-8 - Starters: £6.50-12 Mains: £15-58 - Sides: £3-5 Desserts: £4.50-5.50 Wine: glass from £5, bottle from £23

Where, when, how?

Tuesday-Wednesday 12-3pm and 6-10pm, Thursday-Saturday 12-3pm and 6-11pm, Sunday 12-5pm 4 Redchurch Street, London E1 6JL Shoreditch High Street, Liverpool Street Reservation: yes