Lee Tiernan’s hideout is like no other. This former St. John Bread & Wine head chef does what he wants from the open kitchen of this tiny crazy eatery. Picture this: a massive wood oven covered in Kiss paintings, colourful coffin-style surfboards on the walls, graffiti on the floor and loud music.

Sip a Lagerita wedged between fellow diners over bright Mexican-inspired floral oilcloths, and prepare for the high-flying street feast: cracking flatbreads on silver foil (squid ink, cod’s roe and unicorn glitter or lamb offal); charred hispi cabbage and fermented shrimp butter; pastrami and pickles steamed bun… A delicious slap in the face.

Valentine Benoist