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At last, somebody is putting Persian cuisine under the spotlights! This jazzed-up kebab house is rooted in chef Kian Samyani’s (Gymkhana) childhood memories, paired with the know-how of prolific JKS team. The result? Nods to traditional Iranian houses rub shoulders with the classic Soho vibes: lush backyard thought like a garden with stained glass windows; exposed bricks and shimmering Persian rugs-like walls; silverware and industrial pipes.

Welcomed Tehran family-style by a blackcurrant sharbat you can spike up, happily start tucking into the bunch of mazeh (Greek yoghurt freshened up with cucumber, mint and green raisins; grilled calves livers, onions and lavash bread; feta dressed up with radishes and walnuts…), before moving on to the delightful stews, stealing the show from the kebabs: top guinea fowl legs, saffron and barberry; soft aubergine and beef short rib, split peas and crispy potatoes… Throw in some tadig rice and a few torshi pickles, with a dairy-minty doogh to wash it all down. Then soften the whole thing with a smashing baklava ice-cream sandwich.

Valentine Benoist

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Bubbledogs & Kitchen Table
Bao & Xu

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‘Hayat’ garden room

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Starters: £1.50-6
Mains: £10-15
Sides: £2-4.50
Dessert: £3.50
Feasting menu: £30 pp
Drinks: £2.50-7
Wine: glass from £5, bottle from £28

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Monday-Wednesday 12-3pm and 5.30-10.30pm
Thursday-Friday 12-3pm and 5.30-11pm
Saturday 12-11pm

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27 Romilly Street
London W1D 5AL

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+44 (0)20 3319 8120

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Tottenham Court Road
Leicester Square

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