05 Dec Berenjak
At last, somebody is putting Persian cuisine under the spotlights! This jazzed-up kebab house is rooted in chef Kian Samyani’s (Gymkhana) childhood memories, paired with the know-how of prolific JKS team. The result? Nods to traditional Iranian houses rub shoulders with the classic Soho vibes: lush backyard thought like a garden with stained glass windows; exposed bricks and shimmering Persian rugs-like walls; silverware and industrial pipes.
Welcomed Tehran family-style by a blackcurrant sharbat you can spike up, happily start tucking into the bunch of mazeh (Greek yoghurt freshened up with cucumber, mint and green raisins; grilled calves livers, onions and lavash bread; feta dressed up with radishes and walnuts…), before moving on to the delightful stews, stealing the show from the kebabs: top guinea fowl legs, saffron and barberry; soft aubergine and beef short rib, split peas and crispy potatoes… Throw in some tadig rice and a few torshi pickles, with a dairy-minty doogh to wash it all down. Then soften the whole thing with a smashing baklava ice-cream sandwich.
Feasting menu: £30 pp
Wine: glass from £5, bottle from £28
Monday-Wednesday 12-3pm and 5.30-10.30pm
Thursday-Friday 12-3pm and 5.30-11pm