Chinatown’s eatery has spread on the other side of Shaftesbury Avenue, in a cosy converted townhouse divided in five fancy dining rooms filled with Mao-themed vintage artwork and hairpin-legged wooden-topped tables.

Dig into Francis Law’s menu, focusing on all-day Cantonese dim sum with Sichuan and Hunan influences. Our favourites: the comforting dan dan noodles — fiery ground pork, fatty and spicy, with a couple of rainbow soupy pork and scallop xiao long baos dipped in gingery Chinese vinegar.

Valentine Benoist