18 Feb A. Wong
No more social anthropology for Andrew Wong. Instead, the chef took over the humble family restaurant in 2013, and turned into this dusted-off Chinese destination everyone is still talking about: at lunchtime, steady crowd of regulars from around the world chopstick their way through the delicate dim sum menu.
Pressed along the jade green and bright red bar, pick a plump and juicy xiao long bao bearing the vinegar-ginger juice; a soft mushroom-truffle bun in trompe palate style on kitschy grass; and a few more discreet bites… Throw in a moist Peking duck seasoned by the book and a sip of rare teas, before ending on a high note: the luscious, golden duck yolk custard bursting out of a mandarine-looking bun. In the evening, the tasting menu takes you on a three-hour stroll to the borders of China, from Chengdu tofu to Anhui fermented sea bass.
Dim sum (lunch): £2-12
Sharing plates (eve): £7-25
Tasting menu (eve): £95
Wine: glass from £8, bottle from £30
Tuesday-Saturday 12-2.30pm and 5.30-10pm